В окрестностях Анже

  • Parc de loisirs du Lac de Maine à l’ouest d’Angers centre
  • Parc de la Garenne et l’étang Saint Nicolas à l’ouest d’Angers
  • Parc de Pignerolles à l’est d’Angers
  • Terrabotanica (parc de loisirs sur le végétal), au nord d’Angers
  • Parc de loisirs des Sablières à l’est d’Angers centre
  • Parc Anjou Aventure, balade d’arbre en arbre
  • Les bords de la Loire
  • Saumur
  • Les vignobles de la Roche au Moine
  • Les Villages de l’Anjou
  • L’usine Cointreau (réservation obligatoire)


В Регионе:

✱ The Tapestry of the
Apocalypse Housed in
the château d’Angers,
this medieval masterpiece
depicts the unfolding of the
Apocalypse in one hundred
metres of vivid woven colour.
See p.278
✱ Les Tonnelles, Béhuard One
of Anjou’s finest gastronomic
restaurants, Les Tonnelles is
also its best located, on the
holy island of Béhuard.
See p.285
✱ The Layon valley The sunny
microclimate of the Côteaux
du Layon, just south of
Angers, allows the local winegrowers
to produce some of
France’s finest sweet white
wines. See p.286
✱ Château de Brissac The
tour of this extravagant
seventeenth-century château
offers a taste of aristocratic
opulence; you can even stay
in some of the originally
furnished rooms. See p.288
✱ Au Cabernet d’Anjou,
Le Thoureil This ancient
mariners’ bar has a lovely
terrace overlooking the Loire
– a great place for drinks at
sunset. See p.291
✱ Château du Plessis-Bourré
Inside this belligerent-looking
moated castle is a fascinating
ceiling dating back to the
fifteenth century, painted
with alchemical symbols and
riddles. See p.292
✱ Château de Montgeoffroy
There’s a Marie Celeste feel
to this eighteenth-century
château, built and decorated
just before the Revolution and
scarcely touched since.
See p.296
central anjou

Central Anjou
Anjou is the most diverse of the Loire’s regions, unsure whether to face
west towards the sea or inland up the “royal Loire”. Historically, it is
linked with its eastern neighbours far more than with Brittany to the
west – the counts of Anjou ruled Touraine in the eleventh century, and
the two regions formed the heart of the Plantagenet empire some two hundred
years later. Yet Anjou has a remarkably different feel from other Loire Valley
regions. Dark, rugged schist replaces pale, creamy stone as the favoured building
material, the horizons seem to widen and there’s the faintest tang of sea
salt in the air – a sensation that grows stronger as you travel west. This chapter
covers only central Anjou, the heartland of the region. The southeastern pocket,
known historically as the Saumurois, is covered separately in chapter 5.
Anjou’s capital, Angers, is a spruce cathedral town with a single unmissable
highlight, the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, housed in the city’s ruined château. You
could happily spend a few days visiting the city’s other churches and museums,
and enjoying its modest but upbeat nightlife. Otherwise, Anjou’s superb vineyards
are likely to lure you out into the countryside. Lazing around the Loire and its
tributaries between visits to wine-makers and châteaux can fill a good summer
week around Angers, as long as you have your own transport – otherwise it’s
a two-buses-a-day problem, or no buses at all. Worthy exceptions are the vineyards
at Savennières, which you can reach by train, and St-Aubin-de-Luigné,
which is served by fairly regular buses and where you can rent rowing boats
during the summer. If you want to explore the beguiling villages and gentle wine
valleys of the Layon and Aubance, you’ll definitely need a car or bicycle.
Anjou has more châteaux than any other Loire region, but most are in private
hands and can’t be visited. Among the few which can, Le Plessis-Bourré looks
like a true castle, complete with moat and drawbridge, while Le Plessis-Macé
retains only its outbuildings, though even these are very grand. Both are isolated
in the watery countryside north of Angers. Serrant, southwest of Angers, and
Brissac, in the Aubance valley, are seventeenth-century giants, their architecture
as extravagant as their furnishings. East of Angers, the perfectly preserved
interiors of Montgeoffroy offer a window on a more charming, eighteenthcentury
vision of aristocratic life. By contrast, René d’Anjou’s château at
Baugé, to the northeast, is an empty shell, albeit recently filled with a hi-tech
historical museum, but the fascinating and little-visited town around it makes
a worthy destination, and you could spend a day or two exploring the forested
From mid-June to mid-July, the Festival d’Anjou (wwww.festivaldanjou
.com) brings a programme of theatre and musical events to churches, châteaux
and concert halls.