Aigues-Mortes (Эг-Морт)

Aigues-Mortes (Эг-Морт) — небольшой средневековый городок на юге Франции, в регионе Лангедок-Русийон, расположенный примерно в 40 км от Нима и Монпелье. Это один из наиболее сохранившихся крепостных городов Франции. Название Aigues-Mortes с французского языка переводится как «Мертвая Вода» — оно связано с засоленными озерами, из которых добывают соль.

На юге от города ним можно посмотреть (на машине) природный заповедник Камарг, в основном по дорогам Parc Regional de Carmargue. Одна из самых известных достопримечательностей Камарга является Aigues-Mortes,  город “мертвой воды.” Расположенный посреди мрачных болот и лагун, меланхоличный Эг-Морт находится посреди четырех судоходных каналов. Хотя теперь он удален от берега моря на 6 км, когда-то это был процветающий порт. Людовик IX и его крестоносцы отправились отсюда в свой девятый крестовый поход. 

Погода в Эг-Морте:

 

Добраться в Эг-Морт:

Расположение:

  • в 750 км на юго-западе от Парижа,
  • в 63 км на северо-восток от города Сет,
  • в 40 км на юг от Нима,
  • в 48 км на юго-запад от Арля.

Image result for AIGUES-MORTES map

На поезде в Эг-Морт:

В Эг-Морт из Нима идет тупиковая ветка поездов в направлении Le Grau-du-Roi. Так что доехать сюда из других городов можно только с пересадкой в Ниме (если ехать со стороны Монпелье, можно не доезжать до Нима 1 станцию и выйти в St-Cesaire — здесь еще останавливается поезд в Эг-Морт, а дальше ответвляется).

Расписание поездов Ним — Эг-Морт08-Nîmes-Aigues-Mortes-Le Grau-du-Roi du 11/12/16 au 30/06/17 (PDF, 1.24 Mo)

Схема маршрутов региональных поездов по региону Лангедок-Русийон (PDF)

В день из Нима отправляется несколько поездов, примерно раз в два часа (в будни: 8:47, 10:32, 12:35, 16:23, 17:37, 18:35). Расписание можно посмотреть здесь.

Время в пути — от 32 минут до 1:12.

  • Билет Ним — Эг-Морт стоит одинаково 8,30€. (по состоянию на 2017 год)
  • Билет из Монпелье в Эг-Морт стоит 12,70 — 21,40€, в зависимости от транспорта. Дорога занимает от 1:12 до 2 часов с 1 пересадкой в Ниме.

 

На автобусе в Эг-Морт:

В Эг-Морт из Нима ходит автобус C32 (направление Le Grande Motte)

Расписание автобуса С32:


 

 

 

 

Достопримечательности Эг-Морта:

Главная достопримечательности Эг-Морта — сам город. Средневековая атмосфера до их пор пронизывает каждое здание, каждое укрепление, каждую вымощенную улочку. Город до сих сохранил укрепления, построенные в период  1272 — 1300 гг.

Tour de Constance

Эта башня, возвышающаяся над болотами, представляет собой образец средневекового замка. Наверху, куда можно подняться на лифте, находится панорамная площадка.

Время работы:

  • с мая до августа, ежедневно с 10 до 19,
  • с сентября до апреля: ежедневно с 10 до 17.

Вход:

  • 8€ – бесплатно до 26 лет (кроме школьных групп)
  • Не-европейцы и группы : 6,50€

 

Built at the peak of Gothic architecture, the fortifications of Aigues-Mortes is a remarkably well preserved military structure. The ribbed vaults on the carved capitals, the gargoyles, the refined decor of the Tower of Constance, in contrast to the power of the defensive system of the curtain walls. From the ramparts or from the dungeons’ terrace, you will discover a breath taking sight on the Camargue and the salt marshes whose colours alternate between blue and purple.

Throughout the year we offer temporary exhibitions, guided tours, conferences, workshops and discovery tours for children and school groups on booking and audio tours in French, English, German, Dutch and Italian.

Throughout the year we offer temporary exhibitions, guided tours, conferences, workshops and discovery tours for children and school groups on booking and audio tours in French, English, German, Dutsch and Italian.

Exhibition about the reform in France (porte de la Gardette) and saint Louis and the Mediterranean sea (porte Saint-Antoine).

 

 

Eglise Notre-Dame des Sablons

Религиозным центром Эг-Морта является ценрковь Нотр-Дам дез Саблон (Eglise Notre-Dame des Sablons), расположенная на rue Jean-Jaurès. Построенный из дерева в 1183 году, храм был перестроен из камня в 1246 году в стрельчатом стиле. Современные витражи были установлены в 1980 году вместо сильно пострадавших первоначальных.

Время работы:

  • май — сент. ежедневно  8:30 — 18:00,
  • окт. — апр. еж 9  — 17.

Туристический офис Эг-Морта

Время работы:

  • Низкий сезон: пн — сб 10 — 16. По вск — закрыто, кроме школьных каникул.
  • Средний сезон: еж. 10  — 17.
  • Высокий сезон (июль — август): еж. 10  — 18.
  • Закрыто 25 декабря и 1 января.

 

Экскурсии по Эг-Морту:

All year long on booking.
8€/adult – 3,50€/child (ages 6 – 12).
Free under 6.

En vadrouille tour will take you to explore the ancient town of Aigues-Mortes, a fortified town founded by French king Louis IX. Our passionate and enthusiastic guides will take you through key moments in the history and the wider Camargue region. Guided group tours are available throughout the year, in English upon request. For individuals or special tours, fixed dates may be arranged on prior booking.

EN VADROUILLE
06 41 67 90 75
envadrouille.camargue@gmail.com
www.envadrouille-camargue.com


Винодельни вокруг Эг-Морта

Поездки верхом на камаргских лошадях

Праздники и фестивали


 

Туристический мини-поезд по Эг-Морту:

From 01/04 to 30/09 + All Saint’s holidays.

5€/adult – 3€/child.

Family package (2adults+ 2children). Pet allowed.

Discovery of the medieval town on the little train of Aigues-Mortes. Its historic commentary deals with Saint Louis, the crusades, the wall’s construction, the Religious wars… 25 minutes of funny, fascinating tour downtown. For groups, audio comments available in English, German, Dutch, Italian, and Spanish. For individual, written comments available.

Petit Train d’Aigues-Mortes
Départ Porte de la Gardette
30220 AM
04 66 51 46 79 – 06 03 41 32 66
christine@petittrain-aiguesmortes.fr
www.petittrain-aiguesmortes.fr

 

Соляники Эг-Морта:

Les Salins du Midi

Open from 06/03 to 04/11.
10€/adult – 8.20€/child (5 to 13 years old)
Family (2adults + 2 children) : 31 €.

VISIT TO THE SALT MARSHES

A unique attraction between the salt marsh and the sea, in the heart of an unspoilt natural landscape.
Jump aboard the Petit Train for a 75-minute trip through the salt tables with a stop at the Musée du sel (Salt Museum), or immerse yourself in a 3-hour exploration of the magical salt marsh by mountain bike.

Disabled access on booking – no pets.

Les Salins du Midi

 

Экомузей Камарга

La Maison du Grand Site de France de la Camargue Gardoise

Open Tuesday to Sunday, February to September inclusive, and for guided tours only between October and January inclusive.

6€ – 3€ reduce price. Free excepted entertainment.

“La Maison du Grand Site de France de la Camargue Gardoise” is an ecomuseum which focuses on the landscapes, fauna and flora of Camargue Gardoise. Its 1.6 km discovery trail and range of guided tours and events aim to inspire visitors with an authentic look at the Camarguais landscapes.

cartouche-gs-camargue-gardoise

“MAISON GRAND SITE DE FRANCE DE LA CAMARGUE GARDOISE”

Route du Môle – 30220 Aigues-Mortes
+33 4 66 77 24 72
www.camarguegardoise.com

 

Наследие римской крови и гор

Традиции коррида до сих пор живы в Камарге. Как правило, корреадоры приезжают сюда из Испании.

Хотя в июле-августе проводятся бои быков и на маленьких аренах в Камарге, но лучшая коррида проходит в Амфитеатре Арля (Les Arénes). Билеты на представление стоят от 10€ до 80€.

В нынешнее время наиболее жарким поклонником корриды в Арле был Пикассо, который в благодарность за пролитую кровь подарил городу Арль 70 своих рисунков. Бои быков в Арле проводятся с Пасхи до сентября. Ее тут называют «столь же кровавой, как и все, что служило представлением у древних римлян».

 

Рестораны в Эг-Морте:

Restaurant Les Arcades TRADITIONAL FRENCH There’s no contest:
This is the area’s finest dining choice. This restaurant has several formal sections with
beamed ceilings or stone vaults. Almost as old as the nearby fortifications, the place is
especially charming on sultry days, when the thick masonry keeps the interior cool.
The good, reasonably priced food is likely to include warm oysters, fish soup, fried
stuffed zucchini flowers, grilled beef steak from the Camargue, roasted monkfish in
red-wine sauce, and grilled duckling. A typical local dish is minced bull steak from the
local salt marshes, served with regional herb sauce.
The owner also rents nine large, comfortable rooms with air-conditioning and TVs.
The double rate of 90€ to 110€ ($117–$143) includes breakfast. 23 bd. Gambetta, 30220 Aigues-Mortes.&04-66-53-81-13. Reservations recommended. Main courses 8€–28€
($10–$36); fixed-price menu 32€–42€ ($42–$55). AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun noon–2pm; Tues–Sun 7:30–10pm.
Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Oct.

 

Традиционные продукты из Эг-Морта:

The Medieval city shelters many restaurants with Mediterranean savours, plates of shells to the bull meat, light and inventive specialities with the products of the soil.

sel

La Fleur de Sel de Camargue – Salt

Hand harvested, in the respect of traditions, the “Fleur de Sel” is naturally composed of white and damped crystals. It melts in your mouth and highlights delicately the flavours of the meals it is served with.

bouteilles

Le Vin des Sables – Wine

Providing from vineyards cultivated in sand and in an area unique in France, these wines of quality are coming from traditional and noble grape varieties. They can be red, “rosé”, grey or white.

asperges

L’asperge des Sables – Asparagus

Delicately hand harvested with the help of a “gouge” into the sand mounds, the sand asparagus is white, violet or green, according to the way it is harvested: before or after it sprout out of the soil. It has a flavour and a fragrance unique to our region.

Fougasse d'Aigues-Mortes

La fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes

Until quite recently, the “Fougasse” was cooked only for Christmas. The customer had to bring all the ingredients to the baker: Brioche-style dough, sugar, butter and orange flower. Nowadays you can buy some “Fougasse” all over the year. It was often imitated, but rarely equalled !

And also : « La Pomme de Terre des Sables », « la Carotte de Camargue », the rice beer

 

Birth of the American Cowboy
Many historians believe that the first real cowboys of North America were gardiens,
imported from the Camargue to Louisiana to tend the flocks of the New
World.

 

Ковбои Камарга

The Camargue, where the cowboys of France ride the range, is an alluvial
plain inhabited by wild horses, fighting black bulls, roaming Gypsies, pink
flamingos, lagoons, salt marshes, wetlands, and gluttonous mosquitoes.
Explore the rugged terrain by boat, bike, horse, or jeep.

Заповедник Камарг

With the most fragile ecosystem in France, the Camargue has been a
national park since 1970. It’s known for its small white horses, whose ancestors
were brought here by the Arabs long ago. They roam wild in the
national park, guarded by cowboys, or gardiens, who wear large felt hats
and carry long three-pronged sticks to prod the cattle. The cowboys live in
thatched huts called cabanes. Ancestors of the gardiens may have been the
first American cowboys, who sailed on French ships to the port of New
Orleans, where they rode the bayous of Louisiana and East Texas, rounding
up cattle—in French, no less.

There’s no more evocative sight than the proud snow-white horses running
at liberty through the marshlands, with hoofs so tough that they don’t
need shoes. It is said that their long manes and busy tails evolved over the
centuries to slap those pesky mosquitoes.

Заповедник Камарг (Camargue), белый лошади камарга

 

Флора и фауна Камарга

Exotic flora and fauna abound where the delta of the Rhône River empties
into the Mediterranean. The bird life is the most luxuriant in Europe.
The area, which resembles the Florida Everglades, is known for its colonies
of pink flamingos (flamants roses). They share living quarters with some 400
other bird species, including ibises, egrets, kingfishers, owls, wild ducks,
swans, and ferocious birds of prey. The best place to see flamingo colonies
is the area around Ginès, a hamlet on N570, 5km (3 miles) north of Camargue’s
capital, Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

Посмотреть Камарг

Exploring the Camargue is best undertaken on the back of a camarguais
horse. The steeds can take you into the interior, which you couldn’t see otherwise,
fording waters to places where the black bulls graze and wild birds
nest. You’ll find two to three dozen stables (depending on the time of year)
along the highway from Arles to Stes-Maries. Virtually all of them charge
the same daily rate, 80€ ($104) or 12€ ($16) per hour, including a picnic
lunch. The rides are aimed at the neophyte, not the champion equestrian.
They’re so easy that they’re recommended even for those who have never
been on a horse before.

 

В окрестностях Эг-Морта:

«Сады Камарга»

Steamy, sweaty, and as flat as the plains of Nebraska, the marshy delta of the Rhône
has been called a less fertile version of the Nile delta. The waterlogged flatlands encompassing the Grand and Petit Rhône were scorned by conventional farmers
throughout the centuries because of their high salt content and root-rotting murk.
However, the area was considered a fit grazing ground for the local black-pelted
longhorn cattle, so a breed of cowpokes and cowboys evolved on these surreal flatlands,
whose traditions will make you think of Dodge City combined with primal
hints of ancient Celtic lore. These French cowboys, caretakers of the cattle that survive
amid the flamingos, ticks, hawks, snakes, and mosquitoes of the hot, salty wetlands,
are known and loved by schoolchildren as les gardiens.

Традиции les gardiens

The tradition of les gardiens originated in the 1600s, when local monasteries began
to disintegrate and large tracts of cheap land were bought by private owners. Wearing
their traditional garb of leather pants and wide-rimmed black hats, the gardiens present
a fascinating picture as they ride through the marshlands on their sturdy horses.

Their terrain isn’t the romantic wide, open space of America’s West, but consists
instead of monotonous stretches whose highest point might be a mound of debris left
from a medieval salt flat. The gardiens tend not to be overly communicative to outsiders;
in speaking to one another, they use a clipped, telegraphic form of Provençal
whose syntax would make members of the Académie Française shudder. Motor homes
and caravans are beginning to appear in the area today, but once les gardiens lived in
distinctive, single-story cabanes with thatched roofs and without windows. Bull’s
horns were positioned above each building’s entrance as a means of driving away evil
spirits.

An ally in the business of tending cattle is the strong, heavy-tailed Camargue
horse, probably a descendant of Arabian stallions brought here by Moorish invaders
after the collapse of the Roman Empire. Brown or black at birth, these horses develop
a white coat, usually after their fourth year. Traditionally, they had no sheltered stables
but were left to fend for themselves during the stifling summers and bone-chilling
winters.

Today, in the world of modern tourism, the gardiens have become living symbols of
an antique tradition that hasn’t changed much—the cattle still run semiwild, identified
by the brand of their manadier, or owner. However, today you can expect to see
fewer gardiens than in the past. They seem willing to participate in tourism only up to
a point. Many reminders of their traditions remain in the form of felt-sided cowboy
hats as well as commemorative saddles and boots whose style resembles that of
cowherds on the faraway plains of Spain.

 

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